Greece's Culture Walk

This walk is through the central part of the southern Peloponnese, keeping to less developed parts where there are few tourists in midsummer and even fewer when you walk.

Kardamili lies approximately at the centre of Outer or Messinian Mani. Here the architecture is striking, with tall, narrow houses, sturdy structures with thick walls and few windows built of local, pastel-colored stone and tiles or grey slate. The landscape matches the buildings for grandeur: forever dominating the eastern skyline is the massive, rocky ridge of Taygetus (2407 meters), snow-capped until late April. Its higher foothills, deprived of water by underground channels and caves in the porous limestone, are dry and lunar in appearance. But towards the coast, the rivers re-emerge to feed fields of crops and olive groves.

In spring buds offset the brown and white of the higher ground to dramatic effect. Olives and olive oil, packed in Kalamata (the county capital), are the biggest and proudest export of the region, with local honey and figs also boosting the economy. Some unusual cheeses, such as the creamy "sfela," are the fruit of the huge goat population, while further south farmers gather salt.

The magnificent Byzantine fortress of Mystras lies on a sharp, conical hill. Separated into three parts-the Kastro (fortress), upper town and lower town-this historic settlement used to be the Byzantine capital of the Peloponnese, and indeed the last Byzantine civilization.

In spring, the southern Peloponnese turns into a carpet of flowers, with wild iris, orchids and anemone opening the show in March/April; daisies, spurge and valarium complete the scene. In autumn graceful cyclamen, snowdrops and several species of crocuses abound. Wild herbs (oregano, basil, and thyme) scent the hillsides throughout the year.

Much of the land you walk through is cultivated, usually with olive and citrus groves, and the odd banana or palm tree. At higher altitudes (starting just above Anavriti), there are pine and fir forests, with stands of majestic black pine.

Hunting has driven many animals and game birds away from Taygetus, as in the rest of Greece, but you may still see many of the birds, buzzards and occasional goshawks, bee-eaters and kingfishers. Rock Nuthatches are common on the ruins of Mystras. Of the region's huge population of butterflies, the two-tailed pasha is perhaps the most spectacular; and, of the land fauna, various lizards, tortoises and the occasional badger cross your path.

Accommodations are lovely, casual and comfortable with private bathrooms. The food is typically Greek and is incredibly delicious.

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